Gorilla trekking in Bwindi

Gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park is the number one experience that draws travelers to plan a Uganda safari, with chimpanzee trekking in second place. I highly recommend doing both and, if you have time, spending a few more days exploring more of the country to really soak in the tranquil beauty and plethora of wildlife in Uganda. 

If you ask the most worldly adventurer you know, I bet they’ll say that seeing endangered mountain gorillas in the wild is either one of the most mind-blowing things they’ve ever done or that it’s at the top of their bucket list. It certainly was at the top of mine before I was fortunate to join the ranks of relatively few people who will ever get to experience coming face to face with humans’ closest relatives in the animal kingdom.

The magic of seeing mountain gorillas in the wild

If you’re planning to go gorilla trekking for the first time, consider yourself very lucky. There are few experiences that spark the kind of emotion in humans the way that seeing mountain gorillas in the wild does. Because the animals are rare and live in such a pristine environment that is only reachable on foot, it’s one of the most rewarding travel experiences you’ll ever have, and one that few people have the privilege of accessing. The fact that just by going gorilla trekking you’re contributing to a successful conservation initiative is an important added reason that makes this adventure so special.

Quick facts about mountain gorilla trekking in Bwindi

  • Mountain gorillas only live in one wild, remote part of Africa that spans three countries – Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. 
  • A mountain gorilla safari is a safari on foot. A vehicle will take you to a visitors center but most of the experience involves trekking through jungly terrain. There are easier routes for those who are less athletic. If you are physically disabled there is also the option of being carried into the forest. 
  • A permit is required and limited permits are available. Make sure you coordinate your permit with the rest of your trip itinerary!
  • One permit is good for one day, which means ONE hour in the presence of the animals.  In order to reduce negative impact on the gorillas and their environment each habituated gorilla family is strictly limited one group of up to eight humans for one hour every day. This rule is the same in all three countries where you can see gorillas in the wild but permits vary in price by country

How to book your gorilla trekking safari in Uganda

Below is an in depth breakdown of everything you need to know to plan a safari in Uganda. This is one of those trips where I highly recommend assistance from a travel advisor (like me) who knows the destination and can book you with a reputable local tour operator. You can contact me to plan and book a private trip completely to your specific wants and needs. There are also plenty of reputable, sustainability-minded tour operators that offer group tours with pre-planned itineraries and set departure dates. A group tour will be more affordable than a private custom trip. If you get in touch with me I’d be happy to recommend a tour operator that suits your budget and other preferences.

A note about traveling during the Covid-19 pandemic

At the time of publishing this in 2021, the pandemic is winding down and countries are reopening. Please check CDC guidelines and other travel restrictions. Just because you can travel doesn’t necessarily mean you should. Travel is a privilege. Hopefully the pandemic will eventually be behind us and we can go back to bringing tourism revenue to the small businesses and conservation projects around the world that need it the most.

FAQs and what to know before you go

Sign that reads Welcome for the ultimate gorilla experience in Uganda

Best time to visit Uganda

Uganda is equatorial so the climate changes between wet and dry, but it’s always pretty warm. The two dry seasons fall during December to February, and June-July. I was there in April which is supposed to be one of the wettest months of the year (there are benefits to traveling in the off season!) and expected to get drenched while gorilla trekking, but I stayed bone dry the entire day. So it’s actually pretty unpredictable and as with any safari in Africa you should prepare for just about any weather conditions.

How long to go for

For one day of trekking – which means one hour with the gorillas – you need to spend a minimum of two nights, one night on either side of the activity day in question. When it comes to gorilla trekking especially, many people opt to go twice, meaning on two separate days. This is because, as a reminder, you are visiting wild animals in their own habitat so no two days are ever the same. Animals have moods and feelings and they can be unpredictable. And although every effort is made to ensure you actually meet up with and see the animals (both for gorillas and chimpanzees) there is never a guarantee.

You may also want to plan a rest day in between treks since the experience can be strenuous. Many of my travel clients do this. Many people also include chimpanzee trekking on their Uganda safari. Therefore, ideally your uganda trip itinerary can be anywhere from 4 – 6 nights just for gorilla and chimp trekking and then you’ll generally need a buffer day on at least one end of your trip in Entebbe, due to flight arrival and departure times. There are also plenty of other amazing experiences in Uganda, so you could easily spend 8-10 days.

Trekking Permits

As of 2021, Gorilla trekking permits are $700 per person per day ($1500 per person for the habituation experience, more on that below). Chimpanzee trekking permits are $100-$150 depending on the season. You must reserve and pay for your permits in advance for both gorilla trekking and chimpanzee trekking in Uganda. This is where your travel advisor and/or your tour operator can be very helpful. You or they must confirm that there are permits available on your preferred dates BEFORE you book hotels and flights. Since there is a limit to the number of people trekking in the parks each day, it cannot be guaranteed that you’ll be able to go if you try to reserve permits at the last minute.

Rules and restrictions

The minimum age for gorilla trekking in Uganda is 15 and the minimum age for chimpanzee trekking is 12. The lodges tend to be kid-friendly and it may be possible to leave children with a babysitting service for the day but I don’t recommend this. You also MUST be healthy on the day you trek. Mountain gorillas are so closely related to humans that they can catch a cold or other disease from us and it can be far more dangerous for their immune systems. These rules were in place even before the Covid-19 pandemic spread around the world and are as important as ever. Mountain gorillas are growing in population thanks to conservation efforts but it’s important to understand and respect the restrictions (more on that below under what to expect on the day of).

Visa and vaccines

Uganda requires a visa for entry. You should apply ahead of time. U.S. passport holders can apply for an e-visa and it costs $50. As far as vaccines for Uganda, You should always consult your doctor and the CDC requirements with plenty of time ahead of travel. At the time I went I needed a yellow fever vaccine to be administered a minimum of 10 days ahead of departure. Not only that but there was a shortage of yellow fever vaccines at the time so I had to get a substitute vaccine and appointments were difficult to get in NYC. You may also want a malaria prophylaxis. I can recommend Traveler’s Medical Service if you live in NYC. 

Transportation

International flights arrive in Entebbe which is about an hour’s drive (depending on traffic) from the capital, Kampala. From there, you can take a short flight on a small plane to the western part of the country to see the chimps and the gorillas. You can fly between Fort Portal, where the chimps are, to Bwindi, where the gorillas are. My trip was 100% on the road. The drives were long and broken up with stops to see other things.

I actually loved the drives because we traveled through dozens of small villages where locals were out and about, sitting outside their homes, selling food or odds and ends. It was a window into the culture and I loved it. But bathroom breaks with real toilets and food options are limited, and roads can be bumpy and dusty. So it really depends on your travel style, how much time you have, how much you want to spend, and how curious you are about daily life in Uganda.

Currency and money

The currency in Uganda is the shilling. The conversion isn’t simple so I recommend using Google’s currency converter. ATMs can be found in cities and sometimes in villages along highways but you should plan to bring enough cash for tipping and some for shopping in villages where credit cards are probably not accepted.

How much does it cost?

Uganda is an inexpensive destination to travel to for U.S.-based travelers in terms of buying local item and  transportation by comparison to countries in Europe or parts of Asia. However, a safari in Africa is never inexpensive and it can be very expensive depending on your taste. I specialize in planning luxury adventure travel. As mentioned the gorilla permits alone are expensive at $700 per person. Most lodges noted here are at minimum several hundred dollars per person per night, which is how it’s priced (rather than by room or suite) since activities and food/drinks are included). For a full service trip with guide, vehicle and driver, and high end lodges inclusive of food and drinks, as well as all activities, travelers should expect to pay a minimum of $600 per person per day not including air.

Travel insurance

I always purchase a travel insurance policy when I’m traveling internationally to cover medical emergencies, cancellation for covered reasons, trip interruption, flight issues, lost luggage, and more. It’s important to read the fine print of any policy, as annoying as that is. Beware that Covid-19 is not generally covered by most travel insurance policies.

Is Uganda Safe?

I never once felt unsafe in Uganda. My experience was very white glove as I was traveling with a group, hosted by a wonderful tour operator. But I also had time to wander around certain places on my own which was an important part of the trip (it’s an important part of any travel experience for me) and I always felt at peace when interacting with local people in Uganda. I would have loved more time to wander and explore on my own, but we packed a lot in! Of course, there are always potential issues related to theft or petty crime in any place you travel. I suggest a money belt worn at all times, anywhere you’re traveling internationally. Crime tends to be higher in any larger city and I didn’t spend much time in Kampala or Entebbe.

I also suggest always registering any international trip with the state department, leaving a copy of your passport with a trusted friend or family member, leaving home valuables like jewelry as well as any credit cards or important documents you don’t need like your social security card.

Facts about mountain gorillas

  • They live in families that have intricate hierarchies where one silverback is the patriarch or leader of the family. Male mountain gorillas eventually grow silver fur on their backs, and once they reach a certain maturity they will leave the group to form and lead their own family. Sometimes there are violent conflicts between silverbacks challenging this power structure. 
  • Mountain gorillas are vegetarians. They eat leaves, roots, bark, fruits, tree pulp. 
  • They are gentle in nature and very sensitive to noise. Mountain gorillas have never survived well in captivity. They’re vulnerable creatures, even though they can seem intimidating at first glance. If threatened they can become aggressive which is why it’s important to maintain a safe distance. 
  • There were 17 gorillas in the family I visited but family size can be less or more than this, always consisting of one senior male, several females of different ages and their offspring.

Mountain Gorilla Conservation

There are just about 1000 mountain gorillas left in the world. Thanks to coordinated efforts between governments of multiple countries, funding through tourism, and the cooperation of local communities, this number has risen. Just a few years ago mountain gorillas were considered critically endangered and now they’re classified as endangered. Dian Fossey began studying mountain gorillas in the 1960s and the world can credit her for having an enormous impact on saving the species from extinction. To get a real understanding of the beauty of these animals and the threats against them I suggest watching a moving documentary called Virunga.

Mountain gorillas live exclusively in a relatively tiny part of the planet. It’s an area made up of volcanoes (mostly extinct) and misty mountains covered in rainforests that sits at the nexus of Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo. The ecosystem is situated in one contiguous region, but of course each country has their own sliver of it, and therefore their own rules and regulations related to tourism and conservation apply there. For more information on gorilla trekking in Rwanda for luxury travelers, head over to The Legacy Untold.

Why gorilla trekking in Bwindi is a prime example of sustainable tourism

When you go gorilla trekking the funds from your permit go directly to support the conservation of the animals, including paying for the park rangers and other jobs of local people who live in the rural areas like Bwindi that surround their natural habitat. Just by having this amazing adventure you’re contributing both to wildlife conservation and economic development and opportunities for people who rely on this flow of tourism. 

And there is a positive ripple effect, as the steady stream of visitors need places to stay, eat, shop and explore, providing more opportunity for lodging properties, community tourism projects, restaurants, craft shops, and more. In Uganda, all of this makes for an incredible experience for you, as the visitor, to immerse yourself in the local culture. Gorilla trekking in Uganda is one of the best examples of successful ecotourism in the world.

Where to go gorilla trekking – Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park sits in the Southwestern corner of Uganda close to the borders of the DRC and Rwanda. About . Bwindi is actually one of two places you can go gorilla trekking in Uganda. The other is Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. The gorillas in Mgahinga are actually more connected to the gorillas that live in the Virunga mountain range that runs through Rwanda (it’s called Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda) and the DRC, and those gorillas are able to roam freely between those countries. Bwindi is more contained and by area has a larger concentration of gorillas, as well as more lodging options than Mgahinga. So for gorilla trekking in Uganda, Bwindi is the more popular spot. 

Bwindi actually has four separate entrances and visitors centers for gorilla trekking, placed at four different corners of the park. The names are Buhoma, Ruhija, Rushaga, and Nkuringo.  When you get a permit (reminder that you should do this at the same time that you book accommodation and transportation! One reason to get a travel advisor to help you) the permit is specific to one of the four locations. The further ahead you plan your trip the better chance you have of getting a permit for the location that is closest to your lodge. More on that below under where to stay.

Getting to Bwindi

Whether you travel by car or by air, it’s quite a journey to get to the jumping off point for your gorilla trek. Remember that you’re visiting wild animals in their natural habitat, in a very remote part of the world. In the eight days I spent in Uganda, some of my favorite moments were on drives. In Uganda, homes and businesses are lined up along the roads and people live their lives outside of their homes. Long drives were an opportunity to observe and learn about Ugandan people and culture. The scenery is also stunningly beautiful in many places. If you’re a curious traveler like me, interested in more than ticking off a bucket list experience, you’ll find that the drives are just part of the experience.  

By Air – To fly to Bwindi you would first fly into the international airport in Entebbe and then catch a smaller regional flight to Kisoro Airport, located south of Bwindi. Many international flights arrive too late in the day to catch a flight on the same day so you may need a buffer night in Entebbe (or the capital, Kampala). There are lovely hotels in both. You can also fly from Fort Portal (where you might go chimp trekking) to Kisoro. Once you get to Kisoro it’s about an hour and a half drive to the lodges on the southern end of the park, and more than three hours to some of the northern properties. There are more luxury lodges in the northern end of the park. 

By Car – If you only have a few days, flying is a better option. But you can also drive or be driven from Entebbe to Bwindi directly (at least an 8 hours drive but probably more like 12 with traffic), or go by way of another part of the country if you’re planning a more complete itinerary that includes chimp trekking and game drives in other national parks. If you come from chimp trekking in Kibale Forest, it’s a minimum 6 hour drive. Driving times are very approximate since traffic can be crazy.

Where to stay in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park

Pollygoes Volcanoes Bwindi Lodge
Volcanoes Bwindi Lodge

There are a lot of excellent options for where to stay when you go gorilla trekking in Bwindi. I loved Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp, which is where I stayed. Since I’m a travel designer I was also able to visit other luxury lodges in the area (Buhoma) and can recommend some of those too. I have also planned trips for clients, so I can speak to the best places to stay based on both my own experience and first hand feedback from my recent clients.

You should consider several factors when choosing where to stay:

  • Your budget
  • Your desired level of luxury, service, food, design, and amenities (note that 
  • Your ability to get a permit at your choice of entry point
  • Your fitness level – also correlates to the park entrance point

Because of limited permits and availability at lodges, I stayed near Buhoma but entered for the trek at Ruhija, which was a two hour early morning drive. If you don’t want to get up extra early and have a long drive before you start your trek as well as a two hour drive on the return when you’re tired and dirty, matching the permit/entrance point to your lodge location is important. This is really all about personal preference. I wouldn’t trade the drive for anything. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking. The small group I was with all agreed and we kept asking our guide/driver Ivan to stop the jeep so we could take pictures of the sun rising over the rolling rainforest and purple mountains. We missed the beginning of the safety talk for that reason, ha! But it’s a long day to begin with and not everyone will want the four hours in the car.

The four entrance points for going gorilla trekking in Bwindi are:

  • Buhoma – generally easier terrain and Buhoma Village has lots of artisan shops and other things to explore. The visitor’s center where you start the trek is even in walking distance from some lodges Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp, Mahogany Springs, and Volcanoes Bwindi Lodge. 
  • Ruhija – moderate terrain and a 2+ hours drive from Buhoma lodges. There aren’t really any full-service luxury lodges near Ruhija. The accommodation options are suitable for backpacker budgets and travelers looking for a more rustic experience. 
  • Rushaga – the only entrance where you can access the gorilla habituation experience.
  • Nkuringo – the terrain is considerably more difficult from this starting point.

Luxury Lodges in and around Bwindi

I have a separate article about safari lodges in Uganda with more complete information on the experience at each of the below properties as well as several others in other parts of the country. All of the below are high end properties with excellent service, fully inclusive pricing (meaning meals and drinks should be included as well as laundry).

Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp

Located in Buhoma, within walking distance of one of the starting points. I absolutely recommend this luxury tented camp to anyone who has the budget, as it is one of the most expensive lodges in Uganda. It’s set inside the forest canopy so there isn’t really a view, but you really feel like you’re living in the wild with luxury amenities. So close that the gorillas sometimes walk through the camp, something that was caught in this viral video!

The food at Gorilla Forest Camp was superb. The service was amazing… within 30 minutes of arriving back from my trek the female butler assigned to my tent arrived to take away my muddy boots and dirty clothes and they were returned to me fresh as new at dinnertime. The packed lunch for the trek was above and beyond what I could have expected, it was even more food than I needed and so satisfying. They sent reusable water bottles for us to keep so as to avoid any plastic.

Volcanoes Bwindi Lodge

Located in Buhoma Village. In terms of design this lodge was just my speed. Wood and white interior design, big open decks, and a nice view out to the mountains. The sleeping spaces are separate bandas, like luxury huts, and they’re very spacious and beautiful. 

Mahogany Springs

Located in Buhoma Village. This lodge has an absolutely gorgeous, long balcony that looks out at the forest canopy and mountains. The decor is a little more rustic and country and the price is more affordable than the Sanctuary or Volcanoes properties but still very high value. 

Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge

Located on the south side of Bwindi, the closest park entrances are Nkuringo and Rushaga. Nkuringa is very close, but the terrain is most difficult (steep) of any other part of the park. For trekkers who are not at that high fitness level, Rushaga is a one hour drive from the lodge. Rushaga is also the only entrance where you can do the gorilla habituation experience (described below).

What to expect on the day of your gorilla trekking safari

Be prepared to rise before the sun! This will be a full and physically challenging day for most people. Depending on the distance from your lodge to the visitor’s center that matches your permit, you might have a long drive like I did (about 2 hours).

What to wear

The weather can range so much that the key is layers!

  • Although you might worry about being too hot, wearing long pants is highly advisable because of the rough terrain and thick vegetation. In some areas our tracker was using a machete to whack through areas without a path.
  • Sturdy, broken in, waterproof hiking boots with ankle support
  • Short sleeve shirt, under a long sleeved shirt for protection from the sun and vegetation. Bring a light waterproof rain jacket.
  • Gloves and a trekking pole is good if you have any issues with your knees or ankles because the forest can be very steep.

Rules for gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

You’ll start the day at a visitor’s center. You’ll sit in on a briefing where a park ranger will explain important safety and rules. As mentioned, you get one hour in the presence of the gorillas. The clock starts ticking as soon as your group sees them. It’s important that you do not feel sick on the day of your trek because you could pass along diseases to the endangered gorillas. For both your safety and the safety of the animals you also must try to stay at least 20 feet (about 7 meters) away. I say “try” because the animals don’t know the rules and sometimes they walk out from a bush and it might be close to where you’re standing! The unpredictability is part of the fun. But it is your responsibility to keep a distance with them as best you can.

The trek

The length of your hike will vary greatly. My day started at sunrise, followed by a 2-hour drive, and then about 2 hours of hiking, one hour with the gorillas, and two hours of hiking back out. Believe it or not we started at a high elevation and actually began by going DOWN a steep slope for quite a long time, and then most of the hike was up and down. At dinner after my experience I was able to speak to many people who had had experiences different from my own. Some strolled across a field for 30 minutes before they saw the animals. Another group hiked for two hours before their gorilla family changed course and they had to get back into a vehicle and start over again. You should be up for an adventure and approach the experience with some flexibility.

Your hour with the gorillas

Just like the rest of the day, the experience can vary. My group was shown into a clearing by our guides and trackers where the gorilla family was spread around a space of about 2 acres and they spent about 30 minutes stuffing their faces with leaves. So basically, we arrived at lunchtime! We followed them past the clearing where some of the babies began to climb and swing from the trees and the adults kept eating. But overall we didn’t have to chase them around. Sometimes you may come across the gorillas as they’re on the move and you have to move with them. If you have the budget and time for more than one day of trekking I really recommend it so that you can ensure you get really good quality time in the presence of these magnificent creatures.

What to bring

You may be hiking for a few hours and the weather can vary greatly during the day. You’ll be given a packed lunch by your lodge which should include enough water for the whole day. If your bag is a little bit heavy, don’t worry! You can – and should – hire a porter to carry it for you. It’s important to bring sunscreen and a waterproof jacket – you might need both in the same day! It was supposed to rain the day I went and I ended up getting a sunburn. An extra change of clothing to leave in the car or in a waterproof pouch in your backpack in case of a downpour. You’ll be especially happy to have this if you have a long drive back to your lodge.

Meals

If you stay at one of the properties I recommend you will have a beautiful breakfast to start your day and the lodge will also provide you with a full packed lunch and water.

How do you find the gorillas?

Luckily, tracking the gorillas is not your responsibility. Each gorilla family has a small team of trackers, and each group of people is accompanied by guides, rangers, and porters on the trek. The trackers start their day several hours before everyone else and they find the nests where the gorillas slept the night before, and then they’re highly trained to follow their tracks. The trackers are in touch with the guides/rangers via walkie talkie. Since the process is so well run, you are almost guaranteed time with the gorillas. However, it is never a 100% guarantee. If you don’t see them, the general policy is that your permit will roll over to the next day and you’ll get a second chance. This is why it can be good to plan for two days or plan to spend extra days in the area just in case.

Guides, rangers, trackers and porters

Porter in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park
A porter in Bwindi

The people who accompany you on the trek are highly trained, knowledgeable, friendly people usually from the local communities. In my experience these people are incredibly passionate about their jobs and about the animals, and wildlife conservation. There will be an armed ranger to keep you safe, and the guide can answer questions on the trek, and your porter carries your bags. The rangers or guides and trackers are employed by the park and paid through funds from permits. The porters are not. They only make money if they’re hired for the day. They take turns with other people in their village to have the opportunity to work for the day. Hiring a porter is optional but I strongly recommend it. Not only is it helpful to have someone carrying your bag, but you’re supporting the livelihood of a local person. 

My favorite person I met was Gloria, the porter I hired for the day. She carried my heavy backpack and she walked in front of me the whole day. This is because she was testing the ground and anywhere it might have been slippery she turned around and offered me a hand. Some of the people in my group struggled with the challenging hike and would not have made it without their porters.

Tipping

You should plan to tip each ranger, guide, tracker in your group about $10 per day. This is a tip on top of their pay. As mentioned, porters are NOT paid other than in tips. $15 is the absolute minimum you should tip a porter but you can offer much more.

Accessibility

If you or a family member are physically disabled you can actually arrange to be carried into the park to see the gorillas. It’s not a fancy experience. I saw the device, and it’s a canvas sling that would be carried like a stretcher by several park guides. The cost could be up to $1000. Likewise, if you hike into the forest and then become incapacitated you can be carried out and you will be charged at a similar rate. This information is unique to gorilla trekking in Bwindi and is subject to change depending on available resources.

Mountain gorilla habituation experience

If you’re especially adventurous, have a little more time, and/or are particularly fascinated by primates, you can do something a little more wild called a gorilla habituation experience. I designed a trip for clients to do this and they really loved it. It requires a high fitness level and an adventurous spirit. It involves spending a day with researchers who are working to habituate a gorilla family, meaning working to make sure the gorillas are comfortable in the presence of humans to eventually begin receiving regular visitors. The day is set up differently, as you actually get four hours with the animals rather than one. Reaching the animals can be more challenging as the trackers don’t know the animals as well.

If you’re interested in this experience I recommend doing a regular trek on the first day in Bwindi, followed by a rest day (there are plenty of other things to do in the area!) followed by the habituation day.

Sustainable travel & supporting local communities

As always, sustainability should factor into every single aspect of our lives, including travel. You can incorporate sustainable habits into any trip you take and a Uganda safari and gorilla trekking in Bwindi is no different. Just by choosing to go on safari you’re making a contribution to wildlife conservation efforts through the payment of permits and park fees. And when you spend money in the local community you’re directly supporting economic development including employment. 

One thing to be wary of is anything that feels like poverty tourism. Uganda is a developing country so you might visit areas that are economically disadvantaged. Do not take and share (on social media) photos of any people, especially children, without permission. And even then, consider your motivation, and whether or not you’re preserving their dignity or perpetuating stereotypes about poverty in Africa.

Plan your trip to go gorilla trekking in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

Have questions? Comments? Get in touch with me and I’d love to help you have the trip of a lifetime to Uganda!